Carl Byington, former owner of Impact
Technologies, LLC in Rochester, NY and the current owner of the PHM Design, LLC
in Ellijay GA,has traveled the world to present to collaborate with other
researchers, share his engineering work at conferences, climb mountains,
explore hiking areas, and even run marathons on all seven continents including
Antarctica. This latest series of blogs were written after some of his
adventures in Norway, land of trolls and vikings.
Stavanger – Modern oil boom city mixed with the
charm of old fishing village
Stavanger, on the Southwest coast of Norway, is a
very peaceful and welcoming place. It has the clean modern feel of many
Scandinavian cities with little of the rust belt element that is often
experienced in other industrial hubs. The city booms with all of the North Sea
oil drilling, offshore wind turbine, and related energy exploration,
production, and processing industry. These industries have certainly
contributed to Norwegian wealth and overall standard of living. Wages are good
but taxes and prices are high too. Perhaps way too high from most (at least
American) perspectives.
What really struck me about the city though is the
balance of the new industrial elements and high rises with the quaintness of
Old Stavanger and its easy
“walk-feel”. I describe “walk-feel” as just the spirit and energy you
feel in a place as you stroll through it. While some might view that
Scandinavians are far from the most chipper people, they are definitely
friendly enough once you make an effort to engage them. Their positivism and
can-do work ethic is also felt in the pride they show in their city and the
care they bestow on keeping it attractive. Beautifully decorated houses
peppered along cobblestone streets seem perfectly balanced with the industrial
elements. Both parts sing in a harmony of “we are moving forward and
successful, but we know who we are and the importance of our heritage”. It
is difficult not to admire that in this city and people.
Stavanger, a fine city indeed and, given its
location in Fjord country, a great initial launch point for some outdoor fun in
Norway. Start in Stavanger, enjoy the city, and then go have some hiking fun
outdoors. Just bring the right clothes!
Preikestolen – A wet hike with long views from Pulpit Rock
Preikestolen
(or Pulpit Rock) is located on the Lysefjord just a short drive and ferry ride
from Stavanger. Access to Preikestolen from Stavanger is via the Norwegian
National Road 13 (Rv13) and the ferry from the village of Tau in Rogaland
County. Access from the south is through the city of Sandnes via the ferry from
Lauvvika to Oanes. The road is usually open and the ferries running year round.
It is best though to travel in the warmer months though as the trails may be
closed due to snow and ice during the colder months of the year.
The road
to the site ends in the municipality of Strand,
near the town of Jørpeland. The trail extends directly from the
parking area and a roundrip hike of about 3-4 hours should be planned for
someone of moderate fitness and hiking experience.
The hike up
Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) is enjoyable and leads through varying terrain of
forest, rock gardens, streams and mountain pools. It was early May and thus
still a bit cold and rainy for our hike. This did not deter us or detract from
enjoying the hike. Actually it made it feel more rugged and authentic to have
true Norwegian conditions as we hiked up the fjord rocks. With the wet
conditions though, the footing can be tricky in places and there is a good
possibility of slips and falls. Waterproof hiking boots are preferred over
sneakers although many people only had the latter.
Once you
arrive at the Preikestolen you will have opportunity to stand as close to the
edge as you dare. There is no safety rail or anything to prevent you from
falling should you be careless and make a mistake. Looking down at the water
nearly 2000 feet below your feet can be quite daunting. There is an uneasy
feeling of vertigo that creeps from your belly that dizzies your head and
shakes your knees as you stand at the edge and look down at the abyss. As you
carefully back away from that intimidating view, it might just lead you to a
prayer on one of nature’s most magnificent pulpits.
Additional
References:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preikestolen
https://www.alwayswanderlust.com/hiking-the-preikestolen-pulpit-rock/
Kjeragbolten – Standing 3000 feet over the fjord on a wet boulder
in the wind
The title
pretty much captures the adrenalin rush you will feel if you go out
to Kjeragbolten. It is so frighteningly magnificient that time stands
still.
The hike
itself is much more aggressive than Preikestolen and there are places where
support chains and similar protection have been placed to help with the rock
scrambling. This hike is best accomplished with sturdy hiking boots to support
your ankle from twists and good Vibram soles for grip. Summer conditions would
likely make this hike much more manageable for many folks, but it is also most
crowded at that time.
Since this
was late Spring in Norway, there was greater opportunity to run into varying
weather. We had rain, sleet, snow, and hail/ice storm with 30 mph winds. Two
famous Scandinavian sayings came to mind on our hike to the top.
“There
is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing choices."
“If you don’t
like the weather, just wait 15 minutes.”
Indeed that
was the case on this day. Being mountain climbers, we were prepared with the
right waterproof and insulating layers, but you have to be ready to shift these
layers often when the weather is so variable.
On the hike up
The route is
fairly well marked except at the top of the main escarpment. At this point it
is easy to take one or more paths towards the Kjerag boulder. Unfortunately
bored hikers have built many rock cairns on the top of the rock. This makes it
very difficult to know which is actually the intended trail, so people
naturally disperse and find different paths to the Kjerag trail mark sign.
Maybe that was the objective.
For us, this
was the time that we were pelted by hail so it was easy to lose the little red
markers because we were covering and protecting our faces as we walked. In the
end the path doesn’t matter much and you will find your way fine, especially in
summer when you will likely visit, as there will be a more steady stream of
hikers in both directions.
Once you
reach the boulder jammed in the rock you start to feel the magnitude of scale.
You are standing on the edge of a cliff that is about 3000 feet above
Lysefjord. Stepping out on the boulder itself takes a long brave step, but
feels secure enough. On the boulder, you feel the slightly dizzying effects of
the altitude and exposure. Any balance issue or misstep means a fall with
certain death.
On the hike up and leading to the boulder
In our case
the rock was slick from the prior sleet and rain and the wind was still
gusting. It made the balance even more challenging. My friend went out first
and choose not to stand. I went out second and once I was standing there I
thought maybe I should squat as well! But I stood long enough to get the picture.
Climbing back off the boulder is actually the most harrowing part. The rock is
sloped (and wet) and there are no real handholds that could hold you if your
foot slips on the rock.
That moment
stepping back is actually what I remember most. All the elements of your mind,
body, and spirit are focused on those foot placements and fluid execution.
There is no thinking about troubles at work, personal issues, bills, other
annoyances and inequalities that we deal with in life. We must let all of that
go and focus on just that present moment. This is some of the magic of doing
such extreme activities. It is a beautiful Zen of a moment that rock
climbers, BASE Jumpers, and other adventurers know well.
While this
experience was a very satisfying means to this moment of Zen, you don’t need to
put yourself at 3000 feet above the fjord on a boulder to feel that. I believe
if you seek such peace and extreme focus occasionally in your travels, in
whatever ways you wish, your life view stays more open minded with an appropriate
perspective.
Carl Byington on Kjeragbolten
Additional
References:
https://www.earthtrekkers.com/kjeragbolten-hike-complete-guide/
